If you've ever been to Shanghai then you've probably come across
sheng jian bao 生煎包 - these crispy-bottomed soup filled pork buns can be found in street food stalls, cafés and restaurants all over China's largest city. You could say, along with the better-known
xiao long bao 小籠包, that these are two of Shanghai's numerous signature dishes.
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| sheng jian bao 生煎包 |
Indeed Shanghai is not alone, as many cities around the world have at least one signature dish. I'm thinking of Naples and its pizza; Beijing's crispy skinned duck; Philadelphia cheesesteak; jambalaya from New Orleans; paella Valenciana and Hakata's tonkotsu ramen. But London doesn't really have a signature dish. At this point, some of you may be screaming 'jellied eels' and 'pie & mash' at the screen, but I'm talking about contemporary London, not some 'My Fair Lady' fantasy London of yesteryear.
Come to think of it, London doesn't even have a phoney signature dish such as Singapore noodles or chicken Madras. Sadder still, despite welcoming people from all around the world, there isn't a London signature dish with DNA from beyond these shores. This is particularly piss poor on the capital's part when you consider that Birmingham has its balti.
But does it matter? Not really, but I think it's a bit sad (although my inner-northerner thinks it's bloody hilarious) that the capital doesn't have a dish to call its own. So let's have a crack at creating 'A Dish for London' - your ideas are needed!
For this matter what is Paris' signature dish? I can't think of one. And many consider it one of, if not the, culinary capitals of the world.
ReplyDeleteIn fact Joël Robuchon (very much a French Chef in every way) considers London the food capital of the world - I'd rather that accolade than a London Salad!
I dunno it that's a bad thing - there are so many different cuisine's in the Big Smoke's melting pot of food, that it would be hard to identify one. However, if I were to try and identify a signature dish for London, it would probably have to be a pie. It's not just fantasy London, although there is lot's of history, but there are also influences from incoming communities, particularly in the seasoning, spices and fillings. And they are something I see everywhere, from pubs to street markets to restaurants to caffs.
ReplyDeleteOr, how about - from the other end of the social spectrum - afternoon tea? The tea was obviously from India or China, the cakes and sandwiches more local.
Frank - I did say in the last paragraph that it doesn't really matter and nor do I believe it's an indication as to the culinary prowess of a city. I just think it's a bit sad - that is all. BTW I'm pretty sure Robuchon will kiss the arse of any city he has a resturant in, so I'll take his comments with a pinch of salt.
ReplyDeleteGworm - I take your point, but in the case of pie most parts of the North of England have a far greater claim to having it as their local signature dish than London ever will. There has to be something distinctive about a dish/food that people naturally associate with a place - for me, pie does not scream contemporary London to me. Regardless, it doesn't matter but it would be nice if there was a dish that roared 'I AM LONDON'.
On Afternoon Tea, I think you have a more valid claim, but then again isn't it more a touristy thing rather than something Londoners partake of regularly?
sunday roast?
ReplyDeleteIt should be fish & chips really. It's got the historical connection and it must be one of the things tourists most expect to eat in London. But as with the pie & mash, we aren't in ye olde times and also you don't often see a good one.
ReplyDeleteShu Han - more of a British than a London dish. Besides, I'm sure the good people behind Yorkshire pudding might wanna have a word...
ReplyDeleteFoodycat - again, I'm not sure fish & chips is anymore London than just something that is more widely British.
Historically I think you can argue that it was originated in London and then spread more widely. Didn't it start with Jewish street sellers in the East End in the mid 19th Century?
DeleteFoodycat - there's some debate about that! There's a rival claim that the first fish and chip shop opened in Lancashire.
DeleteWhy is it sad? - that's what I'm trying to ascertain...
ReplyDeleteAlso Joël Robuchon said that about London whilst opening a restaurant in Paris. o_O
ReplyDeleteFrank - it is a bit sad imho. Or to put it another way, I think it would be great if London had a dish it could call its own like pie & mash back in the day.
DeleteFair play on JR although I wouldn't agree with him that London is the culinary capital of the world - that's another discussion we could have lots of fun with!
Hurrumph, hurrumph, now look here old bean, I am going to stick up for my beloved pie and mash here. It is the archetypal London dish, beloved and cherished by millions of unknown voices who pack out the pie and mash shops of the capital, of which there are many, at least 10, day in, day out. It's historical, it's traditional yet the kids love it. The word on the street is that pie and mash is sick, whatever that means but that sort of screams relevance and contempory kudos to me and.... and.... and ......and I don't care what you think or however you look at things and stuff......LALALALALALAIMNOTLISTENING *sticks fingers in ears*
ReplyDeleteDanny - I love your conviction. If only there were more like you then pie & mash would have kept its crown as London's signature dish.
DeleteI take your point on a dish that cries out LONDON! Pie is a little more generic than say the humble pasty is (you get bastardised versions everywhere, but they're always Cornish). So, instead of a food dish, there is one other thing that cries LONDON for me, that exudes the city from every sodden pore. Gin. From Hogarth to Sipsmith it has a strong history, pedigree and is so soaked in the Big Smoke that many gins are labelled "London gin." And yet it is also contemporary, of the moment and - through Hendricks - is very tied in with the contemporary scene.
ReplyDeleteSomehow, having a liquid boozy signature somehow feels very appropriate.
Gworm - I like it, I like it a lot. Yes, let's make it Gin. Make mine a double - I'll pour the tonic, thanks!
DeleteLondon does have a particular style of greasy spoon cafeteria that's not so prominent elsewhere in the country, how about egg, bacon, chips & beans. Accompanied by strong tea, white sliced, and fags.
ReplyDeleteThe trouble with both fish & chips and pie & mash is that they are done better up North than in London. That's not my northern bias at work by the way (honest), pretty much everything else is done better in London.
Dave - you may be onto something. The old school London greasy spoon is a worthy contender for a heritage status!
DeleteI highly recommend Wrights Bar on the LSE campus near Aldwych. Run by an Italian family, it's a cheap but great greasy spoon
ReplyDelete(Savita, an LSE grad)
It has to be pie, mash n liquor. This type of pie is unique....
ReplyDeleteGreasy Spoons are a part of London, but they are also found everywhere in the country as well.
Mzungu - pie, mash & liquor is London, but not today's London. There aren't so many shops left nowadays and (sadly) it is no longer a fabric of London life.
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