Dim Sum in London

{Update Dec 2011 - Please click here for a more up-to-date guide.}

I first stumbled across the world of food blogs when checking out a restaurant on the internet. I don't remember the name of the restaurant but I do remember the blog. It was World Foodie Guide, written by Helen Yuet Ling Pang.

World Foodie Guide has been largely dormant since last year, which is a shame. One feature that I miss in particular is Helen's guide to dim sum in London, and this post is my half-arsed attempt at putting together a similar list.

It's difficult to put together a definitive guide when there are so many dim sum joints in London. So in addition to my four recommendations, I've trawled the wider blogosphere for top tips. If you want to find out more about a particular restaurant, click on the links to their website, if they have one, and reviews by various bloggers.

1. Phoenix Palace – Full Review
This is my favourite dim sum restaurant in London. I just love the buzzy atmosphere, and for once the cliché – it's just like being in Hong Kong – rings true. I know that some bloggers have had indifferent experiences at Phoenix Palace but I've always enjoyed eating at this Marylebone institution.

Top Tips: check out the specials menu where delights such as wasabi prawn dumplings and baby octopus in chilli, lemon, and garlic sauce lurk. The Cantonese BBQ is also top notch and the weekend lunch special of suckling pig is a must-order.

The Downside: service can be variable and the xiao long bao are a bit ropey.

The Damage (based on my most recent visit including tea and service): around £18/head but it can creep up if you order too many specials.

2. Pearl Liang – Full Review
Pearl Liang is widely recognised as one of London's top spots for dim sum. So why isn't it my number one choice? The thing is the atmosphere can sometimes be like the restaurant equivalent of the old 'Highbury library'.

Top Tips: leave room for dessert, as the fried chrysanthemum custard buns and black sesame balls are to die for. The classics are amongst the best in London, and I also like their fried watercress meat dumpling.

The Downside: as I alluded to earlier, the ambience isn't all that it could be and don't get me started on the interior design – too bloody lurid by half.

The Damage: around £18/head

3. Princess Garden – Full Review (Added June 2011)
I'm still kicking myself that it took me so long to get round to sampling this elegant Mayfair restaurant. Whilst its dim sum is more expensive than in Chinatown, its arguably better value given the higher standards of food and service.

Top Tips: check out dim sum that is rarely seen in London such as golden cuttlefish cheung fun, baked cha siu bao, and paper-wrapped prawns with preserved egg.

The Downside: the Cantonese BBQ selection is limited to roast duck and that the porky delights of cha siu (honey roast pork) and siu yuk (crispy pork belly) are absent from the menu.

The Damage: around £14/head

4. Imperial China – Full Review
The only thing you need to know about Imperial China is that Ma and Pa Noodles love it. They're better judges than most of us will ever be, so let's leave it at that! By the way, this Teddington restaurant is NOT to be confused with the Chinatown restaurant of the same name.

Top Tips: stick to the classics, you won't go far wrong. Dishes like har gau (prawn dumplings) and cha siu bao (honey roast pork buns) are excellent.

The Downside: Teddington is in Zone 6 and isn't exactly the easiest place to get to. Also be prepared to queue on Sundays unless you arrive early.

The Damage: around £14/head

5. Dragon Palace – Full Review
I still can't believe how Dragon Palace managed to stay under the radar for so long. This Earl's Court restaurant feels like it ought to be in Chinatown, except that it's too good for Gerrard Street.

Top Tips: Order the fish-filled village dumplings and remember to ask about the weekend specials. They also make their own 'silver-needle' noodles, which are exceedingly rare in London.

The Downside: whilst undeniably tasty, some of the dim sum lacks the finesse that the same dishes have at Phoenix Palace and Pearl Liang.

The Damage: around £14/head

6. Tai Tung – Full Review (Added October 2011)
The Purley Way that skirts Croydon isn't where one might expect to find a restaurant serving decent dim sum. But Tai Tung (part of the Wing Yip Centre) certainly fits that bill with its old school charm.

Top Tips: All the old school classics are present and correct. Of particular note are the scallop dumplings and the fish balls & turnip.

The Downside: This isn't the place to try out the chef's specials or the latest dim sum from Hong Kong. I never thought I'd say this, but it's a bit too old school.

The Damage: around £14/head

What About Chinatown?
In the last year, I've been to two Chinatown places for dim sum, Harbour City and Golden Harvest. Both were distinctly average and the latter has since closed and re-opened as Dumplings' Legend, which specialises in xiao long bao. So far reactions to this new opening have been mixed. Greedy Diva likes it, whilst other bloggers cite that old problem of consistency. Mind you, it's early days yet.

Leong's Legends also attracts kudos for its xiao long bao, but there's much debate as to whether its traditional dim sum is up to scratch. I've yet to put this mini-chain's dim sum to the test but their xiao long bao weren't as good as I expected, when I had dinner at their Lisle St restaurant.

And that's where this section ends, because in my opinion, there isn't a top quality old school dim sum restaurant in Chinatown. Let me know if you think otherwise.

Around London
On any weekend lunchtime, you will see a massive queue outside the Queensway branch of Royal China. This mini-chain of five restaurants has many disciples but in my opinion, Pearl Liang, Phoenix Palace and Princess Garden serve better dim sum for a similar price.

Heading north, Camden's Yum Cha is a bloggers' favourite but I didn't think it was anything special. Let's put it this way, I couldn't be arsed to blog about my lunch there. Way out east, I'm intrigued by Shanghai in Dalston although An American in London was less than enamoured by her visit. Perhaps things have improved in the 18 months since she went.

As we move north-by-north west, we find Alisan, which is in the shadow of Wembley stadium and is highly rated by Tamarind and Thyme. Whilst in Cricklewood, Wing Tai at the Wing Yip supermarket is one of London Eater's favourites.

Going south of the river, Dragon Castle in Elephant and Castle has many fans, as does what is possibly London's largest Chinese restaurant, the Peninsula in Greenwich. With 400 covers, this restaurant is never going to serve the most refined dim sum, but just look at the spread in Meemalee's review.

The Posh Places
Up to this point, the restaurants featured in this post fall into two camps; basic dim sum eateries such as Dragon Palace and slightly more elegant places like Phoenix Palace. But there's a third way to sample dim sum, the really posh Chinese restaurant.

I seldom visit these, as Michelin starred restaurants like Hakkasan and Yautacha hold little appeal for me. From my only visit to Hakkasan, many moons ago, I thought the dim sum was excellent but there was something missing from the whole experience that I couldn't quite put my finger on.

Other posh places in London include Min Jiang, China Tang and Royal China Club. In the case of the latter, I was a little disappointed when I went, as I didn't think there was anything that special given the extra cost.

What About Ping Pong?
Don't even think about it. I didn't write over a thousand words and link to multiple blog reviews all across London for you to eat ersatz dim sum in a chain restaurant. Don't be fooled by the sleek interior and the fancy cocktails, in many ways Ping Pong is to dim sum, what the Angus Steakhouse is to beef.

Last Word
I'm always on the look out for places to eat good dim sum, so please let me know if I've missed out any restaurants that you think should be on my radar.